Nurbldoff

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  1. 1 vote
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    1 comment  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    I think there's a setting in the last tab of the force applier, to say whether it should apply to visible or invisible objects, or both?

  2. 1 vote
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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    Not sure what your problem might be, I've made scenes with huge amounts of (copies of) paintings and it barely moves the thermometer, and it's supposedly way cheaper than sculpts. As long as you're just making one or a few leaves and then cloning them all over your tree, I don't think it should be a problem. Using the cloning options in the painting tweak menu is a great way to multiply paintings for this kind of thing. Otherwise you can also join several paintings together into a single painting, which I believe also saves a lot of thermo. You might lose some individual settings on the paintings though.

  3. 1 vote
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    1 comment  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    I think you should save it as a new version, and set it as public. That should make the newer version override the old version, otherwise still keeping the same data (likes, etc).

  4. 11 votes
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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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  5. 1 vote
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    2 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    The randomizer gadget doesn't really help here, it's purpose is to make a random choice between several inputs, not mainly to produce a random number.

    I'd suggest you use a signal generator gadget instead. It can be configured to produce a pretty random looking signal that should work for you.

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    5 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    Another thing that is key for precision movement is to get used to how the L2/R2 shoulder buttons work. The amount of change you make is somehow proportional to how hard they are pressed, so when you want to slightly change a position/rotation, just hold the shoulder button very lightly.

    "Grid" and sometimes "precise move" are also really useful settings in various situations.

  7. 2 votes
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    4 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    One way to tweak all members of a group is to first scope into the group (L1+RX) and then double-click X. That will select everything inside the group at once.

    Tweaking the group from outside, as you say, will only bring up the menu for the group itself, which is not usually what you want :)

  8. 5 votes
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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    When starting using Dreams, I had to change some of my intuition when compared to working with other 3D tools where you're usually dealing with a subdividing mesh. IMHO the main thing to realise is that you are instead always working with a set of geometric solids, that are combined into your sculpt according to a few simple rules. This means you can't aribitrarily "smooth" your sculpt afterwards, as you might be used to. Instead, you either add or subtract more shapes to the sculpt, possibly with varying degrees of blend. You can also move/scale the shapes you've already put in there. It's a different paradigm that takes a while to get used to, in particular what will be the result of blending two different shapes. E.g. angular shapes can give quite unexpected results and odd creases. Rounded shapes (sphere, torus) are probably the easiest to work with if you want to avoid creasing.

  9. 2 votes
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    7 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    It's really not easy to do this even with Move controllers. I think it's a skill that needs to be honed, drawing in space is quite different from drawing on paper or with a tablet. It would be cool to see some examples of how the MM artists manage to draw the various really nice line figures in the game.

    There's a line tool which is helpful in some cases.

  10. 1 vote
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    4 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    You could perhaps use a variable and a variable modifier that adds 1.

  11. 2 votes
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    4 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    The only way really is to just keep trying :)

    That said, I'm going to write down a few things I've learned so far:

    - Use the mirror setting, it makes it easy to keep symmetry which is almost always what you want.
    - Make sure you turn off "keep upright" and grid
    - Get comfortable with how the "scope in/out" feature works (on groups and sculpts) as you'll be jumping between different body parts a lot. In particular it's a bit confusing how body parts automatically become "groups" if you move more than one sculpt into them. Sometimes you'll need to scope a number of times to get to a sculpt.
    - Learn the Move controllers if you have them, it makes sculpting way more intuitive. There's a tutorial that covers the basic interactions but I think it's not available unless you've done the basic ones first.
    - Get used to pressing L2/R2 lightly to make small adjustments, this is totally necessary for precision placement.
    - Keep moving the camera. If you sculpt from the same angle for too long your sculpt is not going to look how you think :) Try to find the most comfortable camera placement for what you're doing at the moment.
    - The Kareem method of sculpting by smearing and cutting layer upon layer is amazing, but so far it's too advanced for me. I stick with stamping individual shapes, sometimes adding, sometimes subtracting, and usually with some blend. By creativity and thinking ahead you can make surprisingly organic looking sculpts from a few shapes, and they are easy to tweak later. But this is a matter of taste, I'm sure there are other ways to sculpt too.
    - Don't try to get things placed perfectly at once. It's usually easier to stamp them down roughly where you want them and then move them around by (lightly) pressing L2/R2 until you get them right. You can also resize the shapes, or even switch to the stretch tool to change their proportions.
    - Be careful with the looseness settings on the shapes before stamping them; you can't change them individually later (AFAIK) so it's usually best to set them to fairly detailed. Otherwise some smaller details may become too fuzzy. You can increase the looseness of the entire sculpt later if needed.
    - Start with an idea. To me this makes it much more fun, since I have a goal in mind. It also guides the choices you make along the way. It may be that you get another, better idea along the way; then go with that, but don't start from a blank slate. I know that at first, before you know the tools, it's really hard to even come up with ideas, so you may have to spend some time doing random shapes. But pretty soon it will make sense.
    - Don't be afraid to experiment; The best way to learn is by failing and trying again. You can't ruin anything since there's always the "undo" button. You can also save versions of your character now and then if that feels safer. But it's easy to get too attached to your sculpts; if it doesn't turn out how you wanted, consider to start over instead of tweaking it further. You've probably learned something and the next try is likely to be better!

    Hope this helps, and good luck!

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  13. 1 vote
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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    The puppets have some keyframes by default. If you opem the main puppet tweak menu and select one of the keyframes at the bottom of the first page, that's what the puppet will show, and it's also what you will be editing. So if you've selected the "running" keyframe, your edits won't affect the "walking" keyframe, which is also used for standing AFAIK. Maybe that's what's happening?

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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    The only sure way I've found is to manually sculpt the joints until it looks good enough. Sometimes the color and material helps, and higher looseness can also improve things. I will say it's very easy to get perfectionist when looking at a knee joint for too long :)

    OTOH maybe you can save some thermo by simplifying your sculpts using the sculpture detail tool, and making them looser. It's a tradeoff but in many cases you might not need all the detail.

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    4 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    Yes it's a bit of a mystery to me how the cones in the puppet work, they don't seem to contain any other shape. Maybe it's some secret internal MM shape :)

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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    You can also use another shape (a cube maybe) in sculpt mode to cut away the part you don't want (or the part you want with the "cookie cutter" like tool, forget the name).

  16. 92 votes
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    17 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    4 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    Also, it's often easiest to sculpt stuff outside of the puppet. To get it into the puppet, just grab it with R2 and while holding it, scope into the part of the puppet where you want it, and drop it.

    Slightly confusing to me initially was that the body parts of the vanilla puppet are just sculpts. But in order to add things to them without changing the sculpts, you need to either do the above, or scope in and start a new sculpt (maybe there are other ways?). That somehow turns the body part into a group of sculpts. This means that you have an extra level to scope into to get to the sculpts themselves. At least that's how it seems to work to me.

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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    Hard to say, but if it's mostly when jumping, maybe you just need to modify those keyframes?

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    1 comment  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    I think you just need to lower the pelvis part of the puppet until the heels touch the puppet base. I've noticed that if you e.g. shorten the legs too much without doing this afterwards, you can even end up with a puppet that just floats along without moving its legs, I guess because it can't reach the ground :)

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    3 comments  ·  Dreams "How Do I?" 🤔  ·  Flag idea as inappropriate…  ·  Admin →
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    Nurbldoff commented  · 

    I've had this problem too, sometimes it seems almost impossible to get to where you want without some unexpected part of the puppet going haywire. Particularly, I've had one arm or leg get stuck in a weird asymmetric way that sometimes can't even be undone. My only solution is to do gradual changes and be generous with the undo button. Also, sometimes carefully rotating a body part can get it back to where it should be. Anyway, after setting up a few different puppets I think I'm starting to get the hang of it and it's not as much of an issue any more. Moves definitely help too, if you have them it's definitely worth getting into. I find them superior for sculpting and precision placement.

    BTW I think there are some settings that can make life harder when posing; "stay upright", "precise move" and "grid" probably just confuse things. And if you're using the stretch tool to change proportions, obviously the puppet mirror mode is good to keep symmetry.

    I'm guessing this is is a tricky thing to solve technically, since the puppet has a lot of different constraints on it while being fully editable. I think it's super cool that it works, actually :)

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